.MjA5.MjY4
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Batts’ Hotel, Dover St.. Piccadilly 1 Novr 1861
Dear Mary
I wrote to you a few lines the night before last, announcing our safe arrival, at what used to be called the Old [“Old” underscored] London Inn but now rejoices in the title of the “New [New” underscored] London Inn”, at Exeter. –
We were very comfortable there during our short sojourn. We had our private parlour & two bed-rooms No. 39 & 40, adjoining one another. – Laura retired at 10 1/2 p.m.; and I sallied out into High Street, & smoked sundry cigars for 1/2 an hour, whilst I took my observations of some of the quaint old places by gaslight. – Waking next morng. before daylight, I rose before 6, made by toi- -let by candle-light, & then about 7 I sal- -lied forth for 2 hours’ explorations before breakfast. – If I had hired the ser- -vices of a professional guide, I could not have been more successful. – I first climbed up the hill on which the remains of the old Castle stand, & admired the beautiful walk call the “Northern-hay,” & a new white marble figure of Sir
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Thos Acland, erected by public subscrip- -tion 1861. – It is slightly beyond the size of life, attired in every-day clothes (instead the humbug of classical [“classical” underscored] robes)
in
& is ^ my opinion a master-piece of art, by a London sculptor, called Stephens.
Walking down Northern-hay on the oppo- -site side to that I ascended, I came
by
down upon Queen St. & passed ^ the new Post Office etc.; then crossing High St. & thro’ a quaint & narrow footway (that reminded me of Chester), called St. Mar tins St., I entered the Cathedral Square & found plenty for the eye to devour greed
& most beautiful [“beautiful” underscored]
-ily in the venerable ˄ structure. I walk- -ed round it, & down Palace St. into South St. (when I saw the name of Babb [Babb underscored]) over a shop window.) I pursued South St. Eastwardly, until the road took me some distance beyond Mount Radford, & beyond an ancient Well, that Laura knew all about. I came back along Southern [Southern underscored] – hay – apparently the Belgravia of Exeter. It was 5 minutes, past 9 when I entered our parlour; and in
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a few moments Laura joined me & made breakfast. – We had a nice fried sole for breakfast & some poached eggs. Laura seemed to enjoy the meal as well as my -self. During my walk I bought two superb pears. & thus we feasted according to the old Roman rule – “Ab ovo ad pornum;” for I divided one of the said pears between us. - & pocketed the other & one of the little veal-pies for my luncheon on my journey hither. –
Laura seemed about as happy as a princess. Everything seemed to please her. She remarked that the eggs in Devonshire tasted to her different from other eggs – being of course superior to all others! –
It was intended that we should have taken a short stroll together after break- -fast; but by the time she was capari- -soned, it was too near that for the departure of the 10.45 train for Dawlish. I rode down with her to it, & saw her off. She took charge of the [ba-asket?], which still contained a full bottle of the better
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ale. – She gave me Mr. Ferreria’s address & she knows mine. – I desired her to give my kind remembrance to her sister Miss Cox
After she left I still had 2 hours to spare, & I steered at once for the Cathedral. The people were coming out of it after morning service, when I entered, & the old organ was still playing. I was shewn round the old monu- -ments (some of them 600 years [“600 years’ underscored] old!) by a sexton, & I purchased from him a series of stereoscope views of the interior & ex- -terior of the old building. – NB It would be as well, I think, for you to postpone the purchase of the stereoscope until my return, so that it may be of a size to suit
the
these views as well as those of ^ Kendal region. –
Wednesday was fair but cloudy. Yesterday was bright beautiful: so that I saw everything to the greatest advantage. – Laura said it was a real Devonshire day. – Certainly the scenery was most charming.
Nothing wonderful occurred during my journey up to London yesterday. A young married lady, nurse & 2 chil =dren (on in the arms, the other a year
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5 older) occupied the same compartment from beginning to end, that I did, & ex- -cept from Bristol to Bath, where we had a clergyman with us, we had the car- -riage to ourselves. – I gave the lady the first reading of yesterdays Times (which I bot. at Taunton) & I constrained her to take half of my fine pear. When we reached our journeys end I asked her if I could aid her in looking after her luggage or in any other way. She thank -ed me, but said her father was com- -ing to meet her; & a moment after- -wards he appeared. – This was all that passed between us. Being so deaf, I did not care to attempt any conversation with her. –
The country was all new to me, both from Exeter to Bristol, & thence to Didcot.
I was struck much with the aspect of Bath. –
Leaving Exeter at 1 p.m. we reached Paddington a few minutes after 6; & I found my room in readiness for me, when I reached Dover St. about 1/2 past 6
I found several letters awaiting my arrival
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One of them was from Ann, your sister, telling me their usual hours for dinner in Chester Square, & asking me to come tomorrow (i.e. today) & meet the bride & bride-groom, as well as Mr. Hamilton’s half-sister Mrs. Markham, & her husband, both of whom she remarks are Roman Catholics.
I have sent her a note saying I will come today.
I also found a note from Mr. Such, written before he had recd. my last one from Lpool, & asking me to take either a T dinner with himself & family (at 18 Keppel St. Russell Square) at 6 last eveng. or at[‘at’ crossed out] a breakfast with them at 9 a.m. today. – I carried out my programme, as soon as I had arrayed myself in a clean “pillow-case” & dined plainly [‘plainly underscored] at the “Blue Posts,” Cork St. taking with me my map of London; & studying it for short cuts towards Russell Square. I went almost as straight as the crow could fly; thro’ a part of St. Giles’ [‘St. Giles underscored]
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& reached Mr. Such’s door at 8 1/2 p.m.
We had a vast deal of talk as to all manner of things, & finally it ran upon American politics; [‘American politics’ underscored] so you will not be surprised when I add that it was 1/2 past 11 when I wished Mr & Mrs. Such good night, & was 5 minutes to 12 when I reached my own door. The Hotel was closed for the night, but after 2 rings, I was admitted. – I slept most com- -fortably & soundly, after a short allow- -ance the two previous nights; & at once falling into London habits, it was about 9 when I rose, & about 10, or 10 1/2 when I came down to breakfast; for I had to unpack my baggage & stow away the contents in drawers, so as to make myself snug & comfortable.
I did not fare as sumptuously as at breakfast at Exeter yesterday: I was content with T, a muffin, dry toast & a roll of bread – all very good & sufficient – yet seasoned with a pat of Dundee Marmalade, which I went out & bot. before breakfast. Since then
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have been employed in reading the Times after I had written my note to Mrs. Hamilton.
The Times had a very “lengthy” communi -cation from Mr. Theodore S. Fay, former -ly U.S minister in Switzerland, & a gentleman who once lived in old Mrs. Street’s boarding house in N. York, whilst we lived there: thus I felt it the more incumbent in me to wade thro’ his ex- -cessively long letter. It has also 2 editori -als as to Amn. affairs, which I have read, & a letter from Mr. Russell which I have not yet entered upon. – And I have been interrupted by a visit from Mr. Such. It is now 3 1/2 p: m: -
It would save me trouble if on Monday next you would put these 2 sheets under an envelope addressed to “Miss Maury” & enclose that to Messrs Cropper Hodgson & Co. saying you are requested by me to ask them to enclose it in their next letter to Messrs Maury Brothers.
I hope the Mayors Ball went off satisfactorily to all concerned, & especially to the party who went from Welfield Place. Laura & I thought of you all & those prepara -tions for the ball as we sat together after T two nights ago. Yours affectionately R. Maury
